Saturday Cooking: Pizzagaina

Every year during my youth, just before Easter, my paternal grandmother made what we called pizzagain, or what is more properly called pizza gaina, pizza alla rustica, or simply pizza di pasqua (Easter pie). It is a southern-Italian tradition with versions having emerged from various regions. With myriad particular configurations, it is a dense pie filled with eggs, ham, and cheese.

My aunt carried on the Easter tradition of making pizzagaina after my grandmother passed away, but now that my aunt is no longer with us, we seem to have lost the recipe. I tried this year to re-create it, keeping the scope manageable and the number of ingredients minimal, just as my grandmother did.

Here are the ingredients and preparation for today’s attempt:

Ingredients:

one package (two sheets) Pillsbury pie crust dough
16 ounces ricotta cheese
5 medium eggs
8 ounces cubed ham
8 ounces cubed provolone
3 ounces grated Parmesan
salt and pepper

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a square Pyrex dish and line with one of the sheets of dough.

Beat the eggs thoroughly, then add salt and pepper, and fold in the ricotta and the Parmesan. When fully combined, pour into the pie. Add the diced ham and provolone. Use a spoon to distribute the chunks evenly. Cover with the other sheet of dough, and pinch the edges all around the perimeter. Pierce the top crust in several places with a knife so the pie can vent while it bakes.

Bake for approximately 45 to 50 minutes until the crust is brown. Allow to cool to room temperature before serving.

FOLLOW-UP NOTES:

I enjoyed the taste of this pie, but it did not have the same consistency inside as my grandmother’s version. Hers was denser and more firm. I plan next time to use only four ounces of ricotta and ten eggs. Also, I intend to make my own pie crust, as I believe my grandmother always made hers from scratch.

Recipes for this kind of pie abound online, with far more elaborate versions. Some people like to create a top crust with creative patterns and an egg wash for color, and sometimes even using pizza dough instead of a regular pie crust. Some recipes include several different cheeses, as well as a variety of cured meats besides plain ham.

My own attempts will remain simple, as I am keen to regain something my family lost with the passing on of loved ones whose memories are so dear to us.

Happy Easter!

I am participating in the Two Writing Teachers March 2024 Slice of Life Challenge.

5 thoughts on “Saturday Cooking: Pizzagaina

  1. I usually make a sweet ricotta pie for Easter. I got the recipe from the mom of a college classmate over 40 years ago. When I went to make it when we came out of Covid confinement, I could not find the recipe! I tried recreating it from online recipes, but there were SO MANY that I gave up and did what I could remember. It got a little tweaking each year until it almost tasted like the original. Enjoy your Easter pie; it sounds delicious. Buona Pasqua!

    1. Thanks, Rita! I have work to do over the next few years, but now my cousins have learned of my efforts, and they are trying to help. Happy Easter–belatedly.

  2. OMG! My aunt and now my cousins make pizzagaina. I love help preparing it even if I can’t/don’t eat it. My family’s recipe is ham and salami and pepperoni! Being a vegetarian, it’s a no-no for me. I wonder if I can make a gluten-free, vegetarian version and start my own tradition. Thank you for this!

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